An Appalachian Kitchen Book

None of it was ever written down. So I wrote it down.

There was no recipe card in my mother's kitchen. There was a woman at a stove who knew a few hundred small things, and me at her elbow. That is how all of this was carried, and it is how nearly all of it got lost.

Seven chapters. Sixty methods. Thirty-six recipes. And the reason each one works, so it is yours to keep and to change and to hand on.

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Never Written Down, an Appalachian kitchen book by Verna Ledford. Cover shows a cast iron skillet of cornbread on a worn wooden table.

I.

Seven chapters, one for each part of the kitchen

Not courses, and not meals. Rooms. You learn a kitchen the way you learn a house, one corner at a time.

Golden cornbread turned out of a cast iron skillet

One

The Skillet

Seasoning and what it actually is, the hot-pan rule, and cornbread with a crust on it. Twelve methods.

Buttermilk biscuits baked with their sides touching in a cast iron skillet

Two

The Bread Board

Soft flour, cold fat, and why a biscuit is barely assembled rather than built. Biscuits, corn pone, spoonbread, milk toast.

A bowl of soup beans in broth with a wedge of cornbread

Three

The Bean Pot

Why salt does not toughen beans and acid does. Soup beans, leather britches, pot likker and dumplings.

Long-cooked greens in pot likker with cider vinegar alongside

Four

The Greens and the Garden

Long-cooked greens, killed lettuce, chow chow and pickled corn, and what actually cuts bitterness.

Golden fried chicken draining on a wire rack

Five

The Meat

Frying, salt pork, and how one chicken makes three suppers for a family. With the temperatures that matter.

Jars of dark apple butter on a wooden table

Six

Putting Up

Apple butter, kraut, drying, and keeping food without a freezer. Done the way that never made anybody sick.

A bowl of thick potato soup with browned onion

Seven

Making Do

Suppers for when the money has run out before the week has. The winter we ate this way, and how she was good at it.

Also

Blank pages in the back

Room to write down your own people's, before they go. This cooking was always handed on. Now it does not have to stop with you.

II.

The methods are the important half

A recipe is one supper. A method is a thing you can use in a hundred of them. Most cookbooks give you the first and leave out the second, and that is why you can follow one perfectly and still not be able to cook.

Why cold fat makes layers

Butter is about fifteen percent water. Lard is none. That one difference decides whether you get layers or tenderness, and it is why the best biscuit uses both.

Why salted water makes beans tender

The opposite of what everybody was taught. Sodium displaces the calcium holding the skins stiff. I cooked beans wrong for thirty years on my mother's authority.

Why greens go drab, and the trade

Heat frees the plant's own acid, which knocks the magnesium out of the chlorophyll. Bright green and tough, or drab and tender. You cannot have both.

Thin cornbread batter poured into a skillet of shimmering hot fat

Sixty of these, spread through the seven chapters. Every one has a real reason behind it, not just that somebody's grandmother said so. If I could not explain why a thing works, I left it out.

III.

Get the book

One payment. No subscription. Yours to keep and to hand down.

$37$47

At the launch price

  • Never Written Down, the whole book. Seven chapters, sixty methods, thirty-six recipes, fifty-one photographs.
  • The reason each method works, beside the method. Not folklore. The actual mechanism.
  • A seasoning note on every recipe, because the commonest fault with this kind of food is that it comes out tasting of nothing.
  • The large-print edition, free, for reading while you cook. Ask and it is sent.
  • Blank pages to write down your own family's, before they are gone.
  • Every later addition, free. When I set another one down, you get it.
Get the book · $37

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Thirty days. Cook one thing out of it. If it is not what you hoped, ask inside thirty days and every dollar comes back, and you keep the book.

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IV.

This is the cheapest good eating there is

Not because anybody was being clever. Because there was no money, and people still had to eat well. Here is roughly what a week of it runs.

A pot of soup beans

One pound of dried pintos
$1.80
A smoked ham hock
$4.00
An onion
$0.80
Cornbread alongside
$0.90
Feeds six to eight
Under $1.20 a plate

Fried potatoes and onions

Two pounds of potatoes
$1.90
A large onion
$0.80
Bacon grease from the jar
$0.00
Salt and pepper
$0.05
Feeds four to five
About $0.60 a plate

Those are national grocery averages at 2026 prices and your own store will differ. I am not going to promise you a figure for the year, because I do not know how you eat now. What I will say is that the whole book is built on cheap ingredients, and there is not one expensive thing in it.

Verna Ledford at her stove, turning fried apples in a cast iron skillet

V.

Who is doing the writing down

I am seventy years old. I was raised in Cocke County, in the East Tennessee foothills, and I learned to cook standing at my mother's elbow the way she had learned at hers.

I cooked for a family for forty years and I have cooked for one every night since. I am not a chef. I am not a nutritionist and I am not trained. What I have is memory, and forty years of doing it.

My mother had three skillets and knew them the way you know your own hands. She never wrote a word of it down, because there was no reason to write down a thing everybody already knew. Then people moved off, and the stores got good enough that you did not have to know how to stretch a pot of beans, and a generation came up who had never watched anybody put up a crock of kraut.

I am one of the last in my family who watched it done. So I have set it down, as plain as I can put it, and not just the what but the why, because a recipe you can only follow is a borrowed thing and a method you understand is yours.

Look after yourself.Verna Ledford · Cocke County, Tennessee

VI.

Before you cook

The things people ask first.

Are these genuine old Appalachian recipes?

Yes. Leather britches, pot likker, chow chow, pickled corn, apple butter, cracklin bread, spoonbread, killed lettuce and red-eye gravy are all real, documented foodways of these mountains. Nothing here is an invented tradition dressed up to sound old.

Do I need a cast iron skillet or a wood stove?

No. Everything works on a modern range, gas or electric or glass-top, in an ordinary pan. Cast iron makes several things better and the first chapter tells you how to season one and bring a rusty one back, if you have inherited one and been afraid of it.

Is this hard cooking?

No. It is plain food made by people who did not have much time either. Most of it is one pot. The hardest thing in the book is a pie crust, and there is a whole method on why it goes wrong.

Is there a large-print edition?

Yes, and it costs nothing extra. It is the same book set in bigger type, for reading with your glasses off and your hands busy. Ask for it and it is sent to you.

Can I print it?

Yes. It is a PDF. Print it at home, or take it to a print shop such as FedEx Office, Staples or a UPS Store and have it bound, if you would rather have a real book in the kitchen drawer.

Is the canning advice safe?

The apple butter and the sauerkraut follow tested procedures from the National Center for Home Food Preservation, with the processing times reproduced exactly and not adjusted. The book explains why acid foods can go in a boiling water bath and low-acid foods need a pressure canner, and where I could not stand behind a number I have said so and sent you to a tested source instead of guessing. There are three places in the book where I refuse to give a method at all, and I explain why in each one.

What do I actually get, and when?

A PDF, in your email within a minute of paying. It reads on a phone, a tablet or a computer. One payment, no subscription ever, and it does not expire.

Her cooking, finally written down.

Pick one method out of it and use it this week, and again the week after, until you are not thinking about it any more. That is how it goes in. Not by reading. By doing it twice.

Get the book · $37

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Buttermilk biscuits baked with their sides touching in a cast iron skillet

VII.

Take five suppers, free

Skillet cornbread, buttermilk biscuits, soup beans, fried apples and milk gravy. The five I would start anybody on, out of the book, with the method beside each one. Tell me where to send them.

One email with the recipes, and the odd note after. Leave whenever you like.